Bearings play a part in how easily and evenly your wheels run. The packaging carries specifications such as ABEC 5, ILQ 9 or “Ceramic” – but what do they really tell you? This guide explains the markings and the difference between steel and ceramic bearings, and shows you how to clean and maintain your inline skate bearings properly.
ABEC and ILQ: what the ratings mean
ABEC is a tolerance class from mechanical engineering. It describes how precisely the inner ring, outer ring and bore are manufactured. Higher classes (ABEC 1, 3, 5, 7, 9) stand for tighter manufacturing tolerances. However, ABEC says nothing about material, lubrication, sealing or durability – and it is precisely these points that are decisive when skating with dust, wet and lateral forces.
That is why many manufacturers use their own designations. Twincam labels its bearings with ILQ (e.g. ILQ 7 or ILQ 9), while Bones does without ABEC altogether and uses its own quality ranking. Such ratings can only be compared meaningfully within one brand. A bearing with a lower number can perform just as well in everyday use if the material and lubrication are right.
Steel, ceramic or hybrid?
Most inline bearings have balls made of chrome steel, often 52100 chrome steel – such as the Powerslide ABEC 5 Freespin with seven balls or the ILQ 9 classic Bearings 608 with six balls and a steel cage. Steel bearings are robust and well suited to both recreational skating and training.
In ceramic or hybrid bearings the balls are made of ceramic and the rings of steel. Ceramic balls are lighter and harder than steel, and friction is lower. Dirt particles that get in tend to be crushed by the hard balls, and the balls themselves do not rust. Examples are the Bones CERAMIC Red Bearings with six ceramic balls and a nylon cage, or the Ceramic Bearings SET of 16 from Powerslide. The rings, however, are still made of steel and continue to need care.
The right size: 608
Almost all inline wheels take bearings of size 608: 22 mm outer diameter, 8 mm inner diameter, 7 mm width. You need two bearings per wheel, so 16 for a pair of skates with four wheels. With three wheels per skate, 12 bearings are enough. Between the bearings sits a spacer, which must match the axle of your frame.
Cleaning bearings: step by step
- Remove: take the wheels off the frame and carefully lever out the bearings with a bearing puller or an axle.
- Open the shield: lift removable rubber shields at the side with a fine needle or blade. Metal shields usually stay in place.
- Clean: place the bearings in a suitable cleaning agent (e.g. white spirit or a bearing cleaner) and move them around until no more streaks of dirt come out.
- Dry: let the bearings dry completely; do not spin them fast with compressed air.
- Lubricate: one or two drops of lubricant are enough, for example Dry Fluid Glide Agent, which does not attract dust.
- Refit: put the shield back on, press in the bearings with the spacer and tighten the axles with care.
You will find an illustrated guide on our page Cleaning bearings. After a ride in the rain, a quick interim treatment helps: spray the bearings with Caramba 70 Super Plus Oil, which displaces moisture and protects against corrosion.
When replacement makes sense
- The bearing still runs rough, grinds or sticks despite cleaning.
- The wheel has noticeable lateral play.
- Rings or balls show rust or damage.
It is best to replace bearings as a complete set so that all wheels run the same. If you are unsure which bearing suits your wheels and your skating style, we will be happy to advise you in our shop in Villingen-Schwenningen. Feel free to bring your skates along – that way we can look at the wheels, spacers and bearings together straight away.
